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One of the most cost efficient routes to increasing engine power is to swap engines, where possible use an engine from the same make and model as the gearboxes should be from the same range and engine mounts should be easily obtained rather than fabricating custom mounts. Often engines from high powered saloons from a manufacturer will fit the smaller family type car from the same stable.

The key to a successful engine swap is the engine bay - so long as the planned new engine fits any engine can be made to work. If you want to go the whole hog and make a professional job of the engine swap then ideally the car should be stripped to a complete shell to enable to enable a custom drive train to be fitted and complete new loom fitted to handle the new engine.

Beware if the engine swap you are looking to conduct means you will be increasing power in the region of twice the original engines output you must plan to change the gearbox.

Before starting have a look around one of the many forums on the internet to see if the change you are planning has been done before, there will be plenty of tips and people willing to provide information to help you. Also check the requirements for the swap for example will you need shorter drive shafts, new wiring loom or engine management upgrade?

When setting yourself a budget (which must be done if you are realistic about finishing the job) add additional funds on top of around 40 - 50% for those nasty surprises that can and will crop up. When looking for a donor engine look for engines that have been running recently and not stood around - these will need a total strip down increasing your costs and delaying the end of the project.

If you are not planning a total strip down you should at least replace the following items - core plugs, head gasket and cylinder head bolts. Whilst the head is off it is worth checking the engine for further damage and if the work is required then best to put it right now to avoid more expense later. If your budget allows then whilst the engine is stripped down you have the ideal opportunity to complete further modifications such as engine balanced, crank and flywheel lightened and improved gas flow with a machined head. At this stage replacing the water pump, fuel pump and oil pump is advised as any failure of these cheap parts will ruin all your other hard work.

When fitted the new engine needs running for a few seconds, prior to this check all leads and hoses are fitted correctly. After the initial run check the oil pressure and level, water level and check the engine and ground for leaks.

The bedding in period should be taken carefully keeping the revs low and keep a constant eye on the oil and temperature gauge. The oil filter needs changing at 200, 500 and 3000 miles to remove the metal fragments that will collect. After following this running in period then you can start to enjoy that increase in performance you were planning for when you started this project.

Author Andrew Whitehead - a self confessed petrol head has owned numerous modified cars and has now turned his passion into a website. If you are looking for a cheap engine or cheap parts to complete your engine swap then please visit the following website for a huge selection of parts at great prices http://www.onlyautos.co.uk/blog/

Jet skis are personal watercrafts that will sure leave you hurling for more in open waters. However, to be able to make the most out from them (besides their tag prices are so high that you must really get the deal from your precious vehicle), you have to know what keeps it in good working condition.

Other jet ski parts aside, jet ski engines are probably the most important part of the whole machine. It drives the watercraft, it gives the power. Depending on the condition, they provide the performance and create the envying waves. Well, in fact jet ski engines are the ones that will keep the machine running.

In fact, when your buying for a jet ski especially those that are sold second hand, the looks wont say it all. It is always the engine that would spell the difference. In fact, the more the scratches while the engine is working on its optimum power, the better the deal. The engine therefore, gives the life for the vehicle.

The whole PWC is useless when it’s not working right? Well, maintenance for your jet ski engine does not entail demanding routines. As a sample, it would be good to note that the engine, for it to work properly must always be supplied with enough oil. (that isn’t hard right?)

Oil provides the lubrication. This is vital since once the jet ski engine lacks oil, fusing of parts would be possible.

Another thing, flush water from your engine regularly. Lake water may do but algae and dirt normally cause buildup in the engine parts which may eventually cause the decline in performance of the machine. If you are using your jet ski in salt water however, you have to assure to it that salt water is flushed before storing it.

Salt, once it builds up can actually cause you serious problems. These are quite hard to remove and you have no other option but to painstakingly remove them by means other than using hot water (one of the most effective medium for removing salt deposits. After all, you can never use hot water in cleaning a cooling system.

You need also to have a close watch on the impeller. Minerals, dirt, weeds and algae can all get deposited in the impeller which in the end, will drop down the performing capacity of your jet ski. Remember to clear these once you get out from water.

Other than these jet ski engine tips, please check for the specific engine maintenance as stipulated in your PWC manual.

This content is provided by Low Jeremy and may be used only in its entirety with all links included. For more info on jet ski, please visit http://jetski.articlekeep.com